Ritualizing the habit, Part One – Teapots: Yixing, gaiwan, kyusu and co.
With this mini-series Ritualizing the habit, I intend to give a brief and practical overview of some of the basic utensils used in tea preparation.
In part one, I will focus on the most important accessory for tea preparation: the teapot. Without delving too deep into the specifics of materials, etc., I’ll explain the general use, benefits and limitations, as well as give some recommendations regarding practical sizes of some common teapot types.
It is important to note that – while most people are attracted to a certain teapot by its aesthetic appeal – different teapots can have a profound effect on the tea brewed in them. The reason for this are manifold, but some of the major ones are related to the material that the pot is made of (i.e. glass dissipates heat very well and is thus better suited for delicate green and white teas which can easily “cook” in thick-walled teapots), their size and shape.
Yixing teapots
For most lovers of Chinese Tea, life without Yixing teapots is hard to imagine. These small teapots epitomise the fusion of form and function, existing as art and tool at the same time. Yixing pots have a long tradition of craftsmanship and are made in the town of Yixing from various clays specific to this location. The specific properties of these clays (low heat-conductivity, low shrinkage and absence of heavy metals) allow for the manufacture of superior teaware. Yixing teapots are generally unglazed and the porosity of the clay allows the pot to absorb some of the essence of the brewed tea. 
This absorption, however, has the side-effect that you cannot brew vastly different teas in the same pot.
Over time, a higly desirable patina builds up on the pot, just like a in well-cured cast iron skillet. Frequent use gives a pot its shine and fine lustre, as well as improving the flavour of the brewed tea.
Size: The size of a Yixing tea pot depends on a number of factors like preparation style, amount of people to serve and intended tea. Most people use their Yixing wares to prepare gong fu tea. This preparation, which usually consists of many short steepings with a relative large amount of tea leaves, requires a comparatively small pot. To prepare gong fu tea, the pot is often filled to one third or halfway with tea leaves. 
Using a pot that is too large can result in some very expensive gong fu sessions (of course, depending on the price of the tea you’re drinking). Most often, the same leaves are steeped for 4 to 6 (but up to 15-20) times in one session and usage of a large pot would result in excessive amounts of tea! Personally, my recommendation to a beginner would be to start with a pot in the 150-300ml range, depending on the number of people you are usually having tea with (keep in mind that the cups you are drinking from are very small, too).
Larger Yixing pots (say, 500ml and up) often brew very good tea as well, but are less practical for doing gong fu. Use them to prepare tea with longer steeping times (often refered to as “British-style brewing”).
Recommended use for Yixing pots: Gong fu tea, mainly oolongs and pu-erh (raw and ripe), as well as some black teas (but can be used for virtually all teas).
Gaiwan
A gaiwan (or lidded cup) doesn’t quite fit into line with the rest here, but since it is a common tea brewing vessel (and arguably the precursor to the teapot), I decided to include it.
What is a gaiwan? A gaiwan consists of three parts: a lid, a saucer and the cup itself. The tea leaves are put into the cup which is then filled with water and allowed to steep. The infusion is poured into the serving cups, whereby the slanted lid is used to hold back the tea leaves (some people even drink directly from the gaiwan; again, using the slanted lid to hold back the leaves). The gaiwan can be held by the saucer and the lid or just by the cup and lid (can be hot!) for pouring. Most gaiwan are either glazed or made from a non-porous material like glass or porcelain and hence, don’t absorb flavours. This makes them the ideal gong fu vessel for teas you only drink rarely and don’t want to commit a Yixing pot to.
Size: While there are some smaller (50-70ml) and some larger (>300ml) ones, most gaiwan are between 100-150ml, which is a perfect size for gong fu tea. I sometimes use a small one (70ml) when drinking very expensive teas, but for everyday use, a regular size is just right.
Recommended use for gaiwan: Gong fu tea, mainly oolongs and pu-erh (raw and ripe), as well as some black teas (but can be used for virtually all teas).
Kyusu or Japanese (mostly) side-handled teapots, and houhin
Kyusu (or kyuusu, Jap.: 急須) have a very unique aesthetic. Although the term kyusu simply means teapot, it is often used in reference to the distinct side-handled version. Kyusu can be made from different materials, including clay and porcelain. They generally have a wide opening (mouth) and a built-in fine-meshed strainer at the spout (some versions have a basket-type strainer). The side-handle is usually hollow to keep it cool and allows very smooth pouring.
One of the most famous producers of kyusu come from Tokoname, one of the famous 6 historical pottery towns in Japan. Tokoname clay has a high iron content (which is said to enhance the flavour of green tea) and is very fine, which allows for intricate decorations.
A houhin is a cup-sized, handle-less teapot, quite similar to a Chinese gaiwan (described above). They are beautiful, small pots that you won’t see too often. I love using a houhin for finer Japanese teas like our Organic Sencha Premium or fine gyokuros.
Size: Kyusu come in a variety of styles and sizes. Generally a bit larger than Yixing pots, a good average size would be around 300-500ml. Since the drinking cups for Japanese tea are about regular (Western) cup size, a pot of this size serves 2-3 people comfortably. Houhin usually come in sizes around 200ml, which is perfect for the types of tea it is intended for.
Recommended use for kyusu and houhin: mainly (Japanese) green tea (but can be used for virtually all teas), smaller kyusu and especially houhin can potentially be used for gong fu.
Western-style teapots
The ubiquitous Western-style (large) teapot is a very versatile option for tea preparation. Made from porcelain or glass, these teapots are suitable for virtually any tea type. The visual aspect and high heat conductivity of glass teapots make them a great choice for green and white teas which are often beautiful to look at and require a lower brewing temperature. Like their glass cousins, porcelain teapots don’t absorb any flavour from the tea brewed in them. That makes them the ideal choice if you only want to own one tea pot and intend to brew many different types of tea.
Size: Generally, a size of around 400-800ml is ideal. You can easily serve 3-4 people with a 800ml pot.
Recommended use for western-style teapots: any type of tea, but especially good for green, white and black teas (I brew almost all my Darjeelings in a porcelain pot). Usually not suitable for gong fu due to the large size.
If you have any questions or additions, please leave a comment. We have all teapots on this page (and many more) for sale. If you click on an image, you’ll see a bigger version of the picture and the price. If you are interested in purchasing a teapot, please send us an email.